Ok, so I realise Prada is not actually copying from my humble collection. But I couldn't help notice the similarilty between the latest Prada released June 2009 and a range I designed and released in September 2006...3 years prior.
Got a Fashion Label? Understand This...
I read what is possibly the most important idea I've ever read for people with or starting their own fashion label. The article was written by Seth Godin, arguably the world's best marketer. I'm going to slightly reinterpret it to focus on fashion. But if you want to read the original you can do so at http://sethgodin.typepad.com/.
The paradox of the middle of the market
The middle of the market is the juicy part, where profit meets scale.
The paradox is that it's almost impossible to make a product or service for this segment, because they want the tried, the true and the safe. They want to look good in the eyes of the majority.
A friend writes a blog and books for this market. They need his writing. He delivers a lot of value. And yet, it's going to take years (if ever) before he reaches them. That's because this market doesn't seek out new ideas, doesn't leave comments on blogs, doesn't spend a lot of time urging others to check out this new thing. He's spending all his focus on this market, and they're not repaying his focus with their attention.
The middle of the market is the home of Sinatra, Diamond, and Streisand. There's an endless list of others that would like to break in, but it rarely happens. The leading edge of the market is a lot smaller, but far easier to cater to, because those folks are looking and listening and talking. The middle will catch up, eventually, but that doesn't mean you can bet on them.
In my post yesterday, I talked about the temptation to merely pander to the high fashionistas. It's not that difficult to design a dress or shoe that repeatedly shows up in fashion blogs and the media. The thing is, this audience is fickle and they don't often convert into paying customers or long-term fans. It's not that difficult to be haute couture, to be fashionable, cutting edge or fickle. What's difficult is figuring out how to make it pay.
I'm not talking about compromising or dumbing down your product. A very hot hot sauce is remarkable. A sort of hot one is boring, and no one, not even the geeks will talk about it. I'm talking about designing products that are simultaneously remarkable and palatable to people in the middle of the market.
The middle of the market is a paradox because of the inherent contradiction between the ease of reaching the cutting edge fashionistas and the need to reach the middle. The solution, if there is one, is to enter a market to the enthusiastic cheers of those in search of the new, but to build a product/service that appeals to those in the middle. After the initial wave of enthusiasm, you hunker down focus obsessively on the needs and networks of the middle. Your fashion range or collection can include a segment that's cutting edge, haute couture, but it's only a small percentage of the entire range. It's a difficult balancing act, but it's the only one that works.
Ultimately, you may end up disappointing the hard core that first found you, but because of their initial enthusiasm (and more important, because you designed your work for the middle in the first place), your product crosses the chasm and reaches a larger group. The formula starts with a service or product that's purple enough to spread, but not exclusively so hyper-fashionable that it merely entertains the insiders.
The paradox of the middle of the market
The middle of the market is the juicy part, where profit meets scale.
The paradox is that it's almost impossible to make a product or service for this segment, because they want the tried, the true and the safe. They want to look good in the eyes of the majority.
A friend writes a blog and books for this market. They need his writing. He delivers a lot of value. And yet, it's going to take years (if ever) before he reaches them. That's because this market doesn't seek out new ideas, doesn't leave comments on blogs, doesn't spend a lot of time urging others to check out this new thing. He's spending all his focus on this market, and they're not repaying his focus with their attention.
The middle of the market is the home of Sinatra, Diamond, and Streisand. There's an endless list of others that would like to break in, but it rarely happens. The leading edge of the market is a lot smaller, but far easier to cater to, because those folks are looking and listening and talking. The middle will catch up, eventually, but that doesn't mean you can bet on them.
In my post yesterday, I talked about the temptation to merely pander to the high fashionistas. It's not that difficult to design a dress or shoe that repeatedly shows up in fashion blogs and the media. The thing is, this audience is fickle and they don't often convert into paying customers or long-term fans. It's not that difficult to be haute couture, to be fashionable, cutting edge or fickle. What's difficult is figuring out how to make it pay.
I'm not talking about compromising or dumbing down your product. A very hot hot sauce is remarkable. A sort of hot one is boring, and no one, not even the geeks will talk about it. I'm talking about designing products that are simultaneously remarkable and palatable to people in the middle of the market.
The middle of the market is a paradox because of the inherent contradiction between the ease of reaching the cutting edge fashionistas and the need to reach the middle. The solution, if there is one, is to enter a market to the enthusiastic cheers of those in search of the new, but to build a product/service that appeals to those in the middle. After the initial wave of enthusiasm, you hunker down focus obsessively on the needs and networks of the middle. Your fashion range or collection can include a segment that's cutting edge, haute couture, but it's only a small percentage of the entire range. It's a difficult balancing act, but it's the only one that works.
Ultimately, you may end up disappointing the hard core that first found you, but because of their initial enthusiasm (and more important, because you designed your work for the middle in the first place), your product crosses the chasm and reaches a larger group. The formula starts with a service or product that's purple enough to spread, but not exclusively so hyper-fashionable that it merely entertains the insiders.
The New Trend Is No Trend
"The suitability of the product offering is enhanced by a
general retro-activity that see even new products echo
those of a time with which the generation is more
familiar, making them easier to assimilate, especially
since the cycle on which much fashion-oriented products
is predicated grows shorter and shorter. - Retro may be a
braking mechanism on an accelerated culture - the
technology of the computer age means that everything
happens everywhere almost instantaneously, with fashion,
for instance, now comprising less a set of seasonal
dictatorial directions, as a freeform pick'n'mix more
that allows all ages to be fashionable simultaneously. It
reflects a search for authenticity."
Therefore my
designs are less about what is happening in Europe, or
what other importers are doing and more about finding my
own direction. Genuine, authentic designs.
general retro-activity that see even new products echo
those of a time with which the generation is more
familiar, making them easier to assimilate, especially
since the cycle on which much fashion-oriented products
is predicated grows shorter and shorter. - Retro may be a
braking mechanism on an accelerated culture - the
technology of the computer age means that everything
happens everywhere almost instantaneously, with fashion,
for instance, now comprising less a set of seasonal
dictatorial directions, as a freeform pick'n'mix more
that allows all ages to be fashionable simultaneously. It
reflects a search for authenticity."
Therefore my
designs are less about what is happening in Europe, or
what other importers are doing and more about finding my
own direction. Genuine, authentic designs.
Mosman Daily's Beginer's Guide to Men's Shoes
Men must show more soleMATT YOUNG
SHOES are one of the most important aspects when completing the look of your outfit.
Ladies, you most probably know this already but for the gentlemen, it can be a little tough to get this point across at times.
Co-ordination between shoe and belt is key. For example, black shoe means black belt. Not brown or white. Stick to the same colour. Each different style of shoe suits a separate style of man/pant.
Here, experts from Australian men’s shoes labels, Vein and Antoine & Stanley, give some insight on what shoe goes with which look.
1. Vein laced ankle boot in black (RRP $269): Christopher McCallum, head designer of Vein, says shiny black ankle boots can be used for both formal and non-formal occasions,depending on the choice.
‘‘The black ankle boot can look fantastic dressed up with suit pants and jacket or dressed down with a pair of slim fitting jeans. The laser cut pattern in this boot is what creates the versatility of this style.’’
2. Vein low cut lounge slipper (RRP $199): Christopher says, the low-cut slip-ons work really well for a casual look.
‘‘Worn best with slim fitting jeans to accentuate the beautiful shape and colour of this style. Shorts also work well with this shoe, generally the lower the cut of the shoe the better they tend to go with shorts.’’
3. Antoine & Stanley Jude in tan (RRP $159): Paul Waddy, creator of Antoine & Stanley, says that tan is one of his best selling colours.
‘‘This type of tan looks great with a grey suit for an event like the races. This shoe will be comfortable for most guys. It looks great without being too over the top, and it is great for guys who don’t own heaps of shoes, because it can be worn with different styles.’’
4. Antoine & Stanley Kurt in black patent (RRP $159): Paul says, this is a slightly edgier style in a men’s shoe.
‘‘Patent leather is a sharp European look, that is starting to be warmed too by Aussie metro men. It’s a great black tie, or tuxedo shoe. This style can also be worn with a pairof black, skinny leg or fitted jeans with a black pea coat or trench. The patent adds a dressy, expensive look to a guy’s style.’’
My Shopping Connection Interview with Chris McCallum
Orlando's My Shopping Connection editor Erika Pitera chats with Vein Wear men's shoes designer Christopher McCallum (http://www.myshoppingconnection.com/articles/designer-spotlight/spotlight-on-christopher-mccallum.php):
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Brisbane-based designer Christopher McCallum started Vein Wear with just three styles of men's shoes, all in black. From its small start in 2001, his line of sophisticated men's designer footwear has gained immense popularity in Australia.
Though he pursued law and commerce in college, Christopher found himself wanting more creativity in his life. So in 2001, he dropped out and began pursuing his design interests instead. When he began designing shoes, he knew he had made the right decision - he loved the challenge and beauty in designing male footwear.
Despite several setbacks over the years, Vein Wear has become one of the most talked-about labels in Australia. Vein Wear shoes have appeared on the runways of Australian Fashion Week, Brisbane Fashion Week and more.
When you first decided you wanted to pursue a career in design, what made you choose men's shoes over women's?
When I was in Uni studying Law and Commerce, I decided I needed a career that had more creative nourishment. I chose men's simply because it was easier to start designing for myself and my own taste.
What is your inspiration for your latest work?
My latest work is a bit bleak and sombre. I guess I'm inspired/influenced by the times...economic and otherwise.
If you had to choose one thing that sets you apart from other designers in the world of fashion, what would it be?
Probably that I understand the production process and the costs and values that go along with that. So when I design, my decisions are not just purely aesthetically motivated.
What is the biggest challenge you've faced as a designer? Your greatest accomplishment?
The greatest challenge as a designer is getting paid. So many stores don't pay for their purchases on time, if at all. My greatest accomplishment has been opening our own concept store to offer our shoes the way they were meant to be offered.
Probably Louis Vuitton. Nobody does fashion better than them.
Who are your favorite shoe designers?
If was going to buy a pair of shoes that were not from Vein, they would be from John Lobb, Hugo Boss or Converse.
Can I say shoes? My black suede boots. Other than that, my Tag Heuer watch.
When you're not working, how do you prefer to spend your time?
I like reading and playing soccer, and having a few beers on the deck.
Where do you hope to see Vein in five years?
In five years, I hope to see all of our production and stores running super smoothly so I can focus on just design and the more creative side of the business.
Christopher McCallum's shoes are available at:http://www.veinwear.com/
Brisbane News Fashion: Vein Wear's Geeky Chic
That's the Vein Wear Channelled Lacer (V2-4) featured in today's Brisbane News Fashion. It's a stunning combination of black suede and leather. $289 exclusively from the Vein Store in TCB, Fortitude Valley and online at veinwear.com.
Fashion editor Lizzie Corser says, "Temper dishevelled grunge with geeky chic to achieve the new look in casual cool."
I'm guessing these shoes are the geeky chic part of the equation.
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Is Racism Creeping In to Product Choice?
Racism is defined as, "a belief or doctrine that inherent differences among the various human races determine cultural or individual achievement, usually involving the idea that one's own race is superior".
China and India have earned themselves a reputation for producing poor quality products. Often these products have been made by exploited workers in bad conditions. Those workers were not earning a fair day's pay for a fair day's work.
So a healthy dislike of the “Made in China” and “Made in India” label has developed amongst many consumers in the West. Healthy because it sends the message to these manufacturing countries that we want good quality products made by well-treated people earning fair pay. (Whether or not we are willing to pay a higher price for that is another issue.)
However a problem has slowly developed in the West. It’s similar to the adage that to boil a frog, you don’t drop him in boiling water. We started in the lukewarm water and over time have learned to distain the “Made in China/India/Asia” label. The temperature has been rising all the while. To the point that we no longer care if the product is of exceptional quality, or made by workers in good conditions earning fair pay. All we know is if it’s made there, we have contempt for it.
If there is no other reason, other than the race of the manufacturers, to have distain for a product then it boils down to racism. As far as I can see it stems from the definition, the idea that one’s own race is superior.
Sadly I’ve witnessed this attitude in my own industry of footwear in Australia. (For the record, we make most of our shoes in our workshop in Taipei. We do make some in Australia under another brand.) The truth is that the majority of people making shoes in Australia couldn’t even get an apprenticeship with the good shoe-makers in Asia (of which there are many). The average Australian footwear skill level, knowledge and experience are so far below their counterparts in the East it’s laughable.
I know this is a sensitive issue. I’m not Australia-bashing. I’m not considering economic issues. What I want to do is call attention to an un-Australian issue that will continue to grow unless we shine a light on it. Next time you read an article or see an interview where the Western shoe maker infers that their rough shoes are somehow better just because they were not made in Asia, your radar should go up. That is racism. We don’t need it.
Judge products on the merit of the products and company that made them...not geography or race.
China and India have earned themselves a reputation for producing poor quality products. Often these products have been made by exploited workers in bad conditions. Those workers were not earning a fair day's pay for a fair day's work.
So a healthy dislike of the “Made in China” and “Made in India” label has developed amongst many consumers in the West. Healthy because it sends the message to these manufacturing countries that we want good quality products made by well-treated people earning fair pay. (Whether or not we are willing to pay a higher price for that is another issue.)
However a problem has slowly developed in the West. It’s similar to the adage that to boil a frog, you don’t drop him in boiling water. We started in the lukewarm water and over time have learned to distain the “Made in China/India/Asia” label. The temperature has been rising all the while. To the point that we no longer care if the product is of exceptional quality, or made by workers in good conditions earning fair pay. All we know is if it’s made there, we have contempt for it.
If there is no other reason, other than the race of the manufacturers, to have distain for a product then it boils down to racism. As far as I can see it stems from the definition, the idea that one’s own race is superior.
Sadly I’ve witnessed this attitude in my own industry of footwear in Australia. (For the record, we make most of our shoes in our workshop in Taipei. We do make some in Australia under another brand.) The truth is that the majority of people making shoes in Australia couldn’t even get an apprenticeship with the good shoe-makers in Asia (of which there are many). The average Australian footwear skill level, knowledge and experience are so far below their counterparts in the East it’s laughable.
I know this is a sensitive issue. I’m not Australia-bashing. I’m not considering economic issues. What I want to do is call attention to an un-Australian issue that will continue to grow unless we shine a light on it. Next time you read an article or see an interview where the Western shoe maker infers that their rough shoes are somehow better just because they were not made in Asia, your radar should go up. That is racism. We don’t need it.
Judge products on the merit of the products and company that made them...not geography or race.
9to5 Magazine
Who's Jay Lyon you may be asking? I asked myself the same question. After a little googling, it turns out he's quite a talented guy. He's the star of The Hills spin-off, The City. He's the singer for the band Tamarama. And he's dating Whitney Port.What's the Buzz about the City?
City News Article (May 2009):
"THESE boots are made for walking - and playing and dancing. With the winter chills on the horizon what better time to invest in a pair of men's boots than right now. With that in mind the masterly head designer and founder of Vein shoes Chris McCallum has unleashed his winter range of men's boots. BUZZ loves a good man's shoe, and winter is the greatest opportunity for a guy to showcase his personal sense of style, and Vein's new range of ankle boots gives blokes every opportunity to turn it on. "
These Pleated Ankle Boots (AU$329.00) are released in store today. If you can't make it to the store, get them online now...here.
Vein Fashion Retail Business Trainee Postition Open
I'm opening a new position to find and train Australia's next top retailer.
If you or someone you know are interested in fashion, retail, people and learning then please have a look at the description page http://veintrain.blogspot.com/.
I am open to receive applications now. I won't stop until I find "the chosen one".
To get the spot you will have to:
If you or someone you know are interested in fashion, retail, people and learning then please have a look at the description page http://veintrain.blogspot.com/.
I am open to receive applications now. I won't stop until I find "the chosen one".
To get the spot you will have to:
- have a kick-ass interview;
- ace a trial;
- submit a short review of the book "Retail is a University" by Peter James Ryan & Gerard Manion; and
- ultimately be chosen by our customers.
Celebrity Spruikers
Most fashion labels give away their products to celebrity stylists for free in the hope that the stylist will like the piece and recommend it to the celebrity. Then they hope that the celebrity likes it and wears it. Then they hope like crazy that the celebrity wears it outside and gets photographed wearing it. Then they hope that the photo will be picked up by a magazine editor and printed. Then they hope that they find out about it and can get a copy of the magazine.
If you get a copy then you can tell people about it. Otherwise, like a monkey pooping in a tree, they won't know, won't care.
What does it mean? If the celebrity is generally known for their good sense of style then your design is validated. The design on it's own is a fashionably desirable piece.
What does it not mean? It does not mean that anyone will buy your piece unless it is also good value for money. The celebrity didn't pay for it, and probably doesn't know how much the retail price tag is. They probably don't know whose design it is. So they don't know the value of the piece. They only know the aesthetic design. The celebrity has no attachment to the piece because they didn't find it or pay for it. So they won't give any meaningful referrals to your brand and probably won't wear it again. It was yesterday's costume.
You are hoping thousands of that celebrity's fans will flock to buy what the celebrity was wearing on that part of that day. (Forget for a moment that thousands of celebrities wear different things every day of the year.) If they do get to your store's door, and the price tag shocks them, or the material isn't great, or the fit no so good, guess what...they won't buy it. The celebrity validation is of aesthetic design only.
If you want your piece to have real value to the celebrity owning it, let them find it and buy it. They can afford it right?
If you get a copy then you can tell people about it. Otherwise, like a monkey pooping in a tree, they won't know, won't care.
What does it mean? If the celebrity is generally known for their good sense of style then your design is validated. The design on it's own is a fashionably desirable piece.
What does it not mean? It does not mean that anyone will buy your piece unless it is also good value for money. The celebrity didn't pay for it, and probably doesn't know how much the retail price tag is. They probably don't know whose design it is. So they don't know the value of the piece. They only know the aesthetic design. The celebrity has no attachment to the piece because they didn't find it or pay for it. So they won't give any meaningful referrals to your brand and probably won't wear it again. It was yesterday's costume.
You are hoping thousands of that celebrity's fans will flock to buy what the celebrity was wearing on that part of that day. (Forget for a moment that thousands of celebrities wear different things every day of the year.) If they do get to your store's door, and the price tag shocks them, or the material isn't great, or the fit no so good, guess what...they won't buy it. The celebrity validation is of aesthetic design only.
If you want your piece to have real value to the celebrity owning it, let them find it and buy it. They can afford it right?
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