Berluti Poll Results


The Berluti Poll results are in:

  • 50% say "Amazing! I want them now."
  • 33.3% say "Hideous. Burn them!"
  • 16.7% say "Great for someone else, but I couldn't do them."
For those of us that really do want them now, go to http://www.berluti.com/ ... after they have finished re-building the site.


Congratulations Phillipe: So You Think You Can Dance

Phillipe did fantastic last night in the So You Think You Can Dance final. Well done mate. Below are the shots we did with Phillipe for the Vein Wear photo shoot. Phillipe's fans will be happy:









Cinderella Competition

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO US!

Vein Wear celebrates its third year in Fortitude Valley's TCB Arcade this month with an enchanting Cinderella – Prince Charming promotion from April 23 to May 21.

It is hard to believe that three years ago Brisbane's Vein Wear shoes was moving into the Valley's TCB building after being named one of the lucky seven retailers to win an independent store fit-out and free rent for 12 months in Fortitude Valley's TCB Arcade.

Since then, the other six winners – George Wu, Gail Sorronda, Subfusco, Chelsea de Luca, Grbac and Check – have all moved to other locations near and far, but Vein has remained, growing a dedicated following of male and female shoe lovers.

“When we first heard back in 2007 that we were going to receive a 'free store' we were pretty sceptical,” owner Chris McCallum recalls, “but then Lindsay Bennett called and officially laid it all out for us and we were over the moon!

“We have learnt so much along the way about our target market and running a retail business, which has really paid off and seen us not only survive the global financial crisis but also grow to include a second store in Brisbane City's Brisbane Arcade this year.”

To celebrate its third anniversary in the TCB Arcade, Vein Wear is running a special Cinderella – Prince Charming promotion, which will enable a lucky male and female to each win a pair of shoes in their size.

One pair of Kitty Croquet ladies Slouch Boots in black with green trim, and one pair of Vein Wear men's Dandy Loafers in black and white – both in unknown sizes – will be put aside in Vein's Fortitude Valley boutique.




All interested customers need to do is come into the store and ask if they can try on the shoe prize, and if it fits them they automatically go into the running to win the pair!

Customers can try on the shoe prize in Vein's Valley store from Friday, April 23 until Thursday, May 20, and the lucky male and female winners will be announced May 21.

Good luck!

Study in Oxfords



Often when we see a new trend come through we wonder perhaps where the direction or original inspiration came from, in particular this is relevant with shoe design.

Many of the current lasts or shapes of today's modern shoes find inspiration from designs that have been around for many years. A good example of this is the classic Oxford shoe.

Originally titled the Balmoral, and coming from a Scottish and Irish heritage this particular shoe design can be easily recognized by the plain section of leather that covers the toe cap and encloses laces. The Oxford moniker may have come from Pearl & Co. (one of the best and oldest shoe-makers in the world). The company was founded in 1565 in Durham, but moved to Oxford St, London in 1791.

The leather is perfectly joined to the vamp and quarters and covers the laces making this style perfect for those with a narrow foot and low instep. The traditional Oxford also carries the signature five pairs of eyelets and in most cases is undecorated.

In saying this, the Irish and the Scotts also in some instances included decoration on the Oxford, and this is most seen with broguing (holes or perforations) in the toe cap.

The Oxford as a term is used to reference a "dress" shoe paying reference the particular style of toe cap most commonly used in boots.

This style of shoe is often produced using a durable leather and for formal wear made from a patent leather.

Today this shape forms the base for many contemporary shoe designs and still remains a favorite across all generations.

By Adam Grant

Burberry Oxfords:
Cleverley Oxfords:

Armani Oxfords:



John Lobb Fails to Strike Gold in Australia



If you have heard of a famous shoe maker it must be John Lobb. But what else do you know about John Lobb?

Lobb's motto is the biblical, "The last shall be first" (Matt. 20:16).

John Lobb had been a poor Cornish labourer. One of his feet was injured and deformed in an accident when he was 12 years old and so, in order to get a pair of shoes that would accommodate him, he wanted to become a shoe maker.

He approached Old Man Thomas. Old Man Thomas (another famous shoe maker) threw the job-seeking, young Lobb out of his James' Street shop.  The young Lobb brandished a horny Cornish fist and shouted as he left - prophetically - that he would build a firm that would crush Thomas'. And he did just that.

John Lobb trained as a boot-maker elsewhere in London before moving to Australia to try his luck in the goldfields. He never found his fortune in gold but instead came up with the brainwave of making hollow heeled boots for prospectors to hide their gold. The idea caught on and John Lobb set himself up in business in Sydney in 1858. When the Great Exhibition came along in 1862 he sent a pair of his boots along and won a gold medal for their quality.

Twelve months later he sent a pair of his riding boots to the Prince of Wales. He had obtained the Prince's foot measurements by getting some inside knowledge (who knows how from the other side of the world, when the only communications were by sailing ship). The Prince was extremely pleased with the boots and Lobb was awarded a Royal Warrant on 12 October 1863. At that time Lobb was still a tradesman in New South Wales, Australia.

The firm today proudly holds two Royal Warrants to His Royal Highness The Duke of Edinburgh and His Royal Highness The Prince of Wales.

He returned to London in the 1860's and established a business "John Lobb, Bootmaker" which continues to trade as the world's most famous bespoke shoemaking establishment.

Like a lot of the top bespoke makers in London, the family founded a Paris branch, before WWI in 1901. The two Lobb shops made only bespoke shoes.

In WWII the German bombs of the Blitz blew the London premises to bits, six times.  But the German's could not stop Lobb from rebuilding.

The Lobb family owned both shops until 1974, when they sold the Paris branch to Hermes. Hermes also aquired the rights to use the John Lobb name as a ready-to-wear shoe brand (see http://www.johnlobb.com). Hermes spent more than ten years developing the ready-to-wear lasts and line before launching the brand.

The London shop on St. James Street is still owned by the Lobb family, and only makes bespoke shoes (see http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk). Every other John Lobb shop is owned by Hermes and sells the Lobb Paris ready-to-wear shoes. The Paris branch also makes bespoke shoes, and does trunk shows in the various Lobb ready-to-wear shops. Lobb St. James travels to the US and takes orders in hotel suits, much like the travelling Savile Row taiors.



Who has worn a pair of Lobb's? Where the Prince led the rich and famous followed: kings, maharajahs, actors, singers, politicians, business moguls and literati among them. An opera fan could visit Lobbs and hope to mingle with the likes of Enrico Caruso or Gigli, those of a more popular taste Frank Sinatra or Dean Martin. A business man might hope to glean tips from Aristotle Onassis or Guglielmo Marconi. An aspiring writer could see George Bernard Shaw or Roald Dahl. Lovers of the stage might spot Cole Porter, Lord Olivier or Rex Harrison and a young ambitious politician could rub shoulders with Prime Ministers of Great Britain like Harold MacMillan and Ted Heath or political leaders from around the world.  And maybe, one day, you.

So now you know a little more than the average bear about John Lobb shoes.

Sources:
"History Of Men's Fashion" by Nicholas Storey
http://podiatry.curtin.edu.au/boot.html#fantasy
http://www.johnlobbltd.co.uk/history/history.htm

Converse Old Skool Construction




If you are into sneakers you will have already heard about these shoes. But maybe not if you only follow the formal fashion side of things.  Converse has a long history of collaborations and this one is with designer Ryusaka (Ryusaku?) Hiruma. 

Japanese designer Ryusaka Hiruma has been pursuing age-old Italian craftsmanship in Florence, Italy for some time now and wanted to pair its history with Converse’s rich tradition. “I wanted to bring together the history of Florence and Converse’s legacy,” says Ryusaku Hiruma, designer and founder of sak.

They feature a supple upper-leather construction, an interesting contrast-stitching detail and hand-cut star cutouts at the ends of the shoes’ leather laces. Hiruma chose to replicate some of Converse’s popular silhouettes such as the Jack Purcell, the One Star and the Chuck Taylor. The latter model is featured here in black/tan and off-white/tan. Both colorways are comprised of old-world construction techniques, namely hand-stitched uppers, rands and insoles. Another distinctive detail are the hand-stitched leather rands/toe bumpers. 

Anyone would think the world ran out of rubber. You can buy them nowhere convenient for US$600-$700 in sizes 7-11.

Is a climate of perpetual discounting limiting choice and eroding our quality of life?

By Sue Barrett on SmartCompany.com.au (see original post here):


Gerry Harvey was recently bemoaning the culture of discounting in our retail sector. He was saying that retailers had lost the plot and didn't know how to sell real value anymore. He said they had fallen foul of a culture of constant discounting as the only way to attract customers, which was tantamount to business disaster and a degradation of the retail sector. I happen to agree with Gerry in this instance.

He went further by saying that retailers were failing to find out what customers really wanted and what they really valued. He said retailers weren't offering choice - a range of options of different value and therefore were not selling. He went on to say that while a 'sale' may attract customers to a store, you still needed to put the effort into selling. Selling doesn't happen by itself.

I'm not a retail expert, however, discounting, sadly, appears to be mainstream in Australian retail businesses. Rather than a 'sale' being a rare event, it now seems, everywhere you turn there is a 'sale' or discount war waging. In short, over the last 10 to 15 years the consumer has been habituated to look for cheap, cheap, and cheap. The real value to, we, the consumer, of having a range of products and services to choose from across a wide value scale, seems to be lost in a mentality of it must be 'cheap'.

It begs the questions: "How has this come about?" and "Who started this discounting avalanche?" It wasn't always this way. I recently had the opportunity to visit the exhibition 'til you drop – shopping, a Melbourne History' at the Victorian State Library which is about retail shopping in Melbourne across the last 100+ years. I found it quite an enlightening and educational experience.

For instance:
"In the 19th century, 'retail therapy' had a different meaning from how we understand it today. Shopping was often promoted as combining commerce with intellectual or aesthetic benefits. Influenced by British morals and values, the display and purchase of goods were expressions of taste and self-improvement." This is certainly a far cry from the 'cheap, cheap, cheap' we now hear.

It seemed that shopping in the 19th century had a higher purpose to it. Perpetual discounting sadly does not. Constant 'discount sales' erode margins and low or no margins means a business is not profitable and therefore not sustainable. Gerry and other retail experts will tell you that there is a time and a place for discounting – moving old stock, stock liquidation, seasonal or special events for instance. Discounting should NOT be seen as a regular occurrence or constant 'way of life', as this will affect the buying patterns of consumers, ie. people will wait for the 'sales' instead of buying across the year. They will pick their way through the plethora of 'sales' on offer every day, meaning no one has to pay full price for anything across the year, which in turn forces retailers to enter a never ending loop of discounting.

Discounting in any business sector, retail or business-to-business, may increase turnover initially, but as a constant strategy comes at a cost which, in the long-term, may create more severe problems than we had intended. This may include poorer sector and business performance, less investment in new ideas and products, loss of jobs, business closure, decreased diversity, poorer quality products sourced in place of better quality offerings, which can lead to increased customer dissatisfaction, and less choice as a result.

Less choice means we end up only getting access to products that are of a lesser quality. This creates poorer product performance, a diminished product life, and increased and unnecessary consumption, resulting in greater costs than if one had invested in a better product or service in the first place.

Who wants to pay for more 'crap'? In a world where more and more people are conscious of overconsumption, you can see that this journey down the 'cheap' road doesn't lead to a very good place.

Maybe retail needs to return to its 'higher purpose' roots. Another excerpt from the 'til you drop' exhibition states this:
"While bargains are always popular, when standardised brands replace some specialty and locally produced items the quality of products can become less reliable. Today, many shoppers are returning to smaller stores selling organic or locally-grown and made produce. Supermarkets are, in turn, following this trend and promoting gourmet sections and their own ranges of organic and specialty products. The fact that consumers are becoming more aware of the impact of goods and shopping trends on the environment can be seen in new approaches to packaging and transportation. People are increasingly recognising that more sustainable shopping practices can reduce their 'shopping footprint'."

This is why I propose that a climate of perpetual discounting may potentially lead to the erosion in our quality of life and may limit our ability to make the right and best choices for ourselves, our families, our businesses, our communities and the environment. Is our culture of 'discounting' potentially leading us to a false economy? If so, ultimately, this will 'cost' us a whole lot more.

Gerry, I suggest you and your retail mates take a collective look in the mirror and do a bit of reflecting on the potentially larger issues 'constant discounting' may be creating for us all. And while you are at it, why not pay a visit to the 'til you drop' exhibition which has some great pearls of wisdom about creating real value in retail.

Special thanks also go to Andy and Errol, my fellow tennis parents who work-shopped this article with me one Sunday morning as our sons played tennis.
Remember, everybody lives by selling something.

Sue Barrett is a Thought Leader on 21st century sales training, sales coaching, sales leadership, sales capability and sales culture. She practices as a coach, advisor, speaker, facilitator, consultant and writer and works across all market segments with her skilful team at BARRETT.  They help people from many different careers become aware of their sales capabilities and enable them to take the steps to becoming effective, and productive when it comes to selling, sales coaching or sales leadership. Sue and her team are your first and best reference when it comes to forging out a successful career as a competent sales professional and leader . If you have an idea, capability, product, service or opportunity that can benefit another and make their life better in some way then Sue says you need to be able to sell - ethically, honourably, and effectively.  To hone your sales skills or learn how to sell go to www.barrett.com.au.

Changing China’s cheap, cheap chirps

By Peter James Ryan on Inside Retailing (see original post here):


At the World Retail Congress in 2009 the Chinese Government delegation presented an interesting snapshot of the changes afoot in China. While the external view of the country may for many be that of a cheap source of production based on low wage costs, the reality is that China’s middle class ranks are swelling rapidly. At the time of the presentation, Chinese government statistics showed that the annual growth of China’s middle class was equal to the entire population of Australia (i.e. more than 22 million people per annum).

The middle class of China is projected to be more than 70% of the population within 15 years. That is more than 700 million middle class or more than twice the entire population of the USA – consuming as a middle class.

Recent findings among some retail businesses sourcing from China have begun to relay increasing issues from meeting timeframes to even finding factories that will take the orders at all. Not to mention price rises. Anecdotal evidence cites stories of factory workers finding it more lucrative to work at a Starbucks in Northern China near where their families live than to work at a factory in Southern China for low wages and no quality of life. Factories are moving west and north in China as the shift in the source of low-wage workers gains pace.

A similar story is emerging in India and throughout the Asian region as the tidal shift of global sourcing rapidly grows the economy and livelihood of countries that provide low-cost workers one day and middle class consumers the next. India is projected to have more tertiary educated people than the United States population within this decade.

The global sourcing cycle that picked up steam 20 years ago has become such a well-oiled machine that the seemingly insatiable thirst for cheap goods may indeed burn itself out in the next 20 years due to lack of sourcing capability. The current model in many retail categories of low cost over-powering lack of differentiation will come under increasing pressure as costs are forced upward and customers realign spending behavior. Truth be told, while it will create some challenges, this is great news for customers and retailers alike.

At a time when the internet will increasingly challenge the current distribution paradigm, retail businesses will be forced to embrace uniqueness, value-adding and new sources of supply to provide value for an increasing price. This cycle will even see the reversal of global sourcing in favor of selective domestic manufacturing and the re-discovery of the local artisan. Customers were already showing serious signs of fatigue with the disposable culture that has propagated over the past 30 years and customer trends are signaling a re-discovery of quality and desire for ‘built to last’ not built to a cost or fit for purpose.

With increased margins, retail will once again be able to invest in creativity, originality and risk, knowing that we can price for it in our revenue models. It will allow brand franchises to be more defendable and cheap price to return to its historical reason for being – to genuinely clear old stock, to allow for sampling and market share initiatives and to stimulate sales in a crisis rather than becoming an everyday tool. This will be ‘the inflation we have to have’. It will signal the renaissance of real alternatives for a customer base that is sick and tired of commoditized sameness and cheap price masquerading as choice. Start planning for it.

Peter James Ryan is Chief Executive Navigator of Red Communication Australia. Email: peter@redcommunication.com

The Brogue - A modern classic.




For a style that has been around for longer than I have been alive, this classic shoe has made a strong come back on the fashion seen. We saw Lanvin show an updated version on the AW 2010/11 catwalk, thus proving this classic style is still a wardrobe staple for the modern man.

With its origins dating back last century, the concept of the brogue was created by the Scottish and Irish, although popular belief that told us the English were responsible for this style. Some say the it was invented by the Dutch to drain water from their shoes as they toiled in the wet fields. Whatever the true origin it has been reincarnated countless times in modern fashion.

Originally only offered in black and brown, we now see the Brogue in a variety of colours and finishes.

Still a popular style for the discerning client, Vein offers several styles that have been inspired by this classic. The Brogue is the essential style for the modern suit, or tied back with a great pair of well cut jeans.

1. Berluti
2. Dunhill
3. Tommy Hilfiger
4. Canali
5. Grenson
6. Kurt Gieger